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Proposed Federal Rule Could Affect Black Women’s Hair Products Amid Health Concerns

For many Black women, synthetic braids are a staple—styled in salons, dorm rooms, and living rooms around the world. But a growing conversation in the community questions whether the convenience and style benefits are worth potential health risks.

This discussion follows a proposed federal rule, currently delayed, to ban the carcinogen formaldehyde in hair-straightening products. Concerns have since expanded to synthetic braids, driven by a recent Consumer Reports study highlighting harmful chemicals in some popular products.

The Consumer Reports study, published in February, detected dangerous chemicals—such as lead, benzene, and other carcinogens—in 10 common synthetic braiding products. However, experts noted the study’s limited sample size and lack of peer review, cautioning against drawing firm conclusions. Cosmetic chemist Javon Ford called the dataset “limited,” while James Rogers, Consumer Reports’ head of product safety, said the pilot project aimed to spark conversation, not offer definitive answers.

Previous research, including a 2020 study in Environmental Health Insights, found synthetic hair releases volatile organic compounds (VOCs) when heated, a common step when sealing braids. These VOCs included benzene, a known carcinogen also flagged by Consumer Reports.

The safety of synthetic braids remains uncertain due to limited research and minimal government oversight. Consumer Reports is now urging the FDA to regulate synthetic braiding hair. Jasmine McDonald, an epidemiology professor at Columbia University, said the findings shouldn’t cause panic but raise awareness. She emphasized the importance of understanding potential risks, calling for more research and better regulation.

If you’re concerned about synthetic braids, consider alternatives. Gloria Okpurukre, owner of Anointed Fingers braiding salon in Georgia, suggests Brazilian wool hair or braiding natural hair, though the look may differ. Some brands use banana fiber for a gentler option, but cosmetic chemist Ford warns this doesn’t guarantee safety.

Molecular biologist Raven Baxter stopped using synthetic braiding hair due to the lack of research. She now opts for natural products like aloe vera gel and vegetable glycerin. McDonald advises avoiding products with PFAS, parabens, and other “forever chemicals,” and suggests using online databases like the Breast Cancer Prevention Partners’ Campaign for Safe Cosmetics to check product safety.

Until more research emerges, awareness and informed choices are key to safer hair care practices.

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